The best of Thredbo in summer

Aleney de Winter and family discover there’s so much more to Thredbo than snow, hitting the mountain for sublime summer fun.

When most people think Thredbo, they think snow – and well they should as the town is synonymous with some of the best skiing in Australia. When you live in a country where regular snowfalls are rare except for a small section of the Great Dividing Range, it’s hard to be known for much else. So it is a pleasant surprise to discover the beauty of Thredbo in summer, to be able to visit the natural wonders of the area without the freezing temperatures, and to explore the village of Thredbo without the huge crowds. The best thing about Thredbo in summer though is that it is a haven for active families – so if your brood loves hiking, exploring, mountain climbing, tobogganing, tennis, swimming, and especially downhill mountain biking, then this is the summer escape for you.

Mud! It’s everywhere. I’m not talking a smear, more Jackson Pollock-esque splatters streaked from top to toe. Through the caked-on dirt, my son’s face breaks into an exhilarated grin.

“I stacked!” he laughs, as his dad pulls up beside him on a mountain bike, a little less muddy but equally gleeful. “This is awesome,” he shouts as he wheels away, leaving me in his dust.

You see, we decided to swap summer sandals for hiking boots and trade lazy beach days, for the crisp mountain air, emerald valleys and sapphire skies of Thredbo. More than just a snow resort that sheds its winter coat during the warmer months, it’s the perfect playground for thrill seekers and nature lovers whatever the season, and summer has left us smitten, if a little grubby.

Mountain biking at Thredbo in summer

Home to Australia’s only lift-accessed gravity trails, Thredbo Mountain Bike Park boasts a 40km network of mountain biking trails, skills parks for all abilities, two pump tracks and the Thredbo MTB School. The school’s team of certified PMBIA instructors ensure there are fewer spills and more thrills.

After a two-hour introductory lesson, an initially wobbly Raff has taken to mountain biking with the same fervour he usually reserves for skiing. So my 15-year-old adrenaline addict commits the rest of his day to tackling its 40km of gnarly downhill tracks. Every obstacle overcome is a victory, each near-wipe out another hilarious story to be shared over dinner. But as the day progresses, he’s carving turns that weave through wildflowers and navigating the trickiest paths with the grace of a mountain goat.

Wearing mud, sweat and a couple of bruises like badges of honour, he calls it quits only when Thredbo closes the lifts for the day.

Thredbo Village

Back at the village, a different kind of thrill awaited. Dancing on the pebbled bank, anticipation buzzing in his bare feet, he challenges his little sister to take a dip in the Thredbo River. Fed by snowmelt from Kosciuszko’s crown it’s notorious for its icy bite. Cautiously dipping a toe in, she winces at the temperature, but after a sweaty afternoon of mountain biking, Raff plunges straight into the refreshing water to cool off.

Unconvinced, Marlo talks him into relocating downstream to the Thredbo Leisure Centre, where along with a massive indoor pool and slide, The Mission Inflatable overwater obstacle course’s bouncy towers and slippery slopes invite more thrills and loads of spills until bellies begin to rumble.

We’re staying at the Thredbo Alpine Hotel, conveniently nestled right in the centre of the village, opposite Valley Terminal, and we’re surrounded by places to dine. The hotel is charming. Our adjoining rooms are cosy and comfortable, while on-site parking and indoor storage for skis and bicycles make for an effortless stay. The kids hose the day off and we head downstairs to The Local Pub, where my ravenous offspring gobble down a heaving bowl of nachos and a banging crispy chicken burger, before heading down to the game lawn for a spot of cornhole, leaving us to sip our cocktails and enjoy a sunset that painted the sky in fiery hues.

Heading to new heights

My unstoppable son has us all up early for breakfast at our hotel’s restaurant, Cascades, because he has a date with the bouldering wall at The Thredbo Leisure Centre. By the time he returns, we’ve laced up our best walking shoes, filled our backpacks with water bottles, sunscreen and hats, and have made a quick dash to The Bakery in the Village Square to stock up on salad rolls and pastries for lunch.

Hiking in Thredbo

We’re off to the Valley Terminal to meet Jono. He is waiting with his battered pirate hat and a glint of adventure in his eyes to take on our next mammoth adventure, a guided hike up Australia’s highest mountain. Thredbo’s hiking trails unfurl like ribbons across the glacial valleys and mountains of Kosciuszko National Park and are thoughtfully designed for hikers of various skill levels. And while they’re easy to DIY, having a guide, especially a born storyteller like Jono, ensures we’re fully immersed into the rich history of the region. We hear stories of the area’s traditional owners, the Monero – Ngarigo people, tales of colonial explorers and of the delicate balance of life in this high-altitude sanctuary.

The Mount Kosciuszko Trail

Today, he’s taking us on the big one, the Mount Kosciuszko Trail. The 13-kilometre return hike from the top of the Kosciuszko Chairlift goes to the highest point in Australia. At 2,228 metres above sea level, it has me heavy breathing before we even start. You see after a recent illness, my fitness levels do not match my kids, and though it’s a relatively easy trail, I’m a little nervous about the six-hour trek. But Jono knows exactly how to bring the best out of people and he has me merrily, if not slowly, trudging up the mountain as the trail unfolds like a scene from a fairy tale. In fact, I’m too busy admiring the carpets of wildflowers undulating across the rolling green hills, the waterfalls gently tumbling into crystal-clear rivers and the jagged rocks that pierce the mist to remember how unfit I am. While he shares all his knowledge of the actual residents of the mountain like the bare-nosed wombat and threatened species such as the tiny mountain pygmy possum and corroboree frog, I can’t help but wonder if the otherworldly landscape is also home to orcs and elves.

The highest point in Australia

After hours of hiking, we stop at Rawson Pass for lunch and a visit to Australia’s highest toilet. And I admit that my shaky legs are wondering if this is far enough. But with just 1.5 kilometres left to reach the summit, I swallow a teaspoon of cement and commit to it. And by commit, I mean I have the kids take turns pushing me up the mountain. As we approach the summit, a sense of anticipation builds, and while we were hoping it might culminate in a 360-degree view of the Snowy Mountains, the day’s mist has other plans. But we’re just thrilled we can say we’ve conquered the mountain and have made it to the tippy-top of Australia, surrounded by the silent grandeur of the Alps.

We’re rewarded for our endeavours with more than just pride as we begin the trek back down the mountain. The mist lifts to reveal panoramic view after glorious view, the sun making the rivers glint like sapphires and the petals of the silver snow daisies glisten, adding an extra touch of enchantment to the scene.

More Thredbo summer thrills

Returning to Thredbo Village, my heart swells with pride after conquering the mountain summit. But my oblivious kids are already off on another adventure, racing down the mountainside at breakneck speed on the Alpine Bobsled, enjoying what might be their final ride on this classic attraction, as it’s making way for the exciting new Thredbo Alpine Coaster.

The Thredbo Alpine Coaster

The Alpine Coaster, set to debut just in time for Thredbo’s winter season, promises year-round, all-weather thrills. The rail-guided toboggan ride is set to be a thrilling 1.5-kilometre circuit that’s a mix of uphill and downhill tracks, boasting a top speed of up to 40 kilometres per hour, though riders can control their speed as they navigate its tunnels, bridges and spirals. I leave them to it and celebrate my personal victory with a sneaky rosé at the pub, but the aroma of wood-fired pizzas from the Alpine Pizzeria soon beckons the rest of my brood.

Summer days in Thredbo

Our days continue with more mountain biking, more hikes and more of that intoxicating mountain air. My youngest is punctuating mountain adventures with the treasure hunts and arts and crafts on offer during the Kids Summer Adventure Festival, while her brother bonds with his mountain bike. Thredbo’s summer has proved more than just a different view of the mountains, it has introduced us to the quiet awe of untouched nature, the thrill of pushing our limits, and feel-good familial bonds forged in shared adventures.

Indeed, we’ve embraced the magic of mountain life so much that, while we’re planning a snowy sojourn in winter, we’re also planning to hit repeat on gravity mountain biking, heavenly hiking, and the mayhem on mission inflatable during the Autumn school holidays. I mean, how could we resist with alpine adventures galore and the fun of the Kids Autumn Adventure Festival’s abundance of activities for all ages, including a visit from the Easter Bunny (because even tweens and teens are up for a chocolate delivery).

Keep reading:

• Thredbo Alpine Resort
• New South Wales’ Best Holiday Parks
• The best family road trips in NSW

Does the Thredbo chairlift run during summer?

The chairlift at Thredbo operates all through summer and is a great way to enjoy a bird’s-eye view of the township, as well as skip the most vertical part of the climb up to the top of Mt Kosciuszko.

Is the Mount Kosciuszko Trail kid-friendly?

The walk itself is roughly 8km return and will take the best part of half a day – allow longer if you have younger kids. The track is well formed with plenty of signage, but be prepared for sudden changes in the weather and a drop in temperature. As well as plenty of water, lunch and snacks, make sure you also pack jumpers and waterproof jackets and hats – there is a good chance they will come in handy.