From penguins to theme parks, community gardens to fantastic eats and sleeps, Madeline Hoskin discovers why St Kilda makes for an unbeatable seaside spell with kids in tow.
While the weather may not always be sunny and swimwear-appropriate, the ‘vibe’ rippling through Melbourne’s seaside mecca of St Kilda is one that’ll have families feeling warm and fuzzy all year round. It’s early October and I’m here on the first warm weekend of the season. Brave paddleboarders are embracing the calm waters sans wetsuits; cafés are raising sidewalk umbrellas, enticing amblers to enjoy coffees and ice cream in their shade; and families are out in force, playing in the numerous parks and the sands of St Kilda Beach. It’s not crowded, but you can sense that the area is thawing out after its winter hibernation.
Less than 20 minutes’ drive from the action-packed CBD, it might seem odd at first opting to bunker down in Port Phillip for your holiday. However, after my visit, nothing makes more sense. It’s relaxed, perfect for families and the sea is quite literally at your doorstep. Most bars and restaurants are quick to accommodate little ones, and the sense of community is contagious. Plus, should you wish for a sample of the ‘big smoke’, a quick ride on the tram lands you right on Flinders Street. It’s truly the best of both worlds.
If you’re parent to some thrill-seeking types, don’t go past Luna Park Melbourne. Chomp on colossal serves of fairy floss and then have a screaming good time while you discombobulate your senses on rides like the spindly-legged Spider, the free-falling Coney Island Top Drop or – my personal favourite – the whizzing Enterprise. If rides aren’t your thing, fear not: the park is stunning and you and the kids are sure to have a great time just wandering and exploring. The Parisian carousel runs at a gentle pace, with ornate ponies prancing in loops around an Art Noveau, hand-carved organ… It’s like a time warp into an old-world carnival by the sea.
During school holidays the park adds to the fun with Bumper Bubbles. Just try not to laugh as your ecstatic little ones clamber into clear, inflatable spheres before trying their best to tread water like gleeful, aquatic hamsters.
Found in the quiet backstreets off Neptune Street, St Kilda Adventure Playground is a kid’s dream come true. Bright colours, big climbing structures, chooks, a flying fox… One mum watching on as her toddlers and partner wreak havoc on a pirate ship tells me, “I don’t know who has more fun – my kids or my husband.” The playground is open Monday to Friday from 3.30 to 5.30pm, and on weekends and school holidays between 11am and 5pm.
If adorable animals and a pristine beachfront is more your scene, head off to the iconic St Kilda Pier on a penguin hunt. The best time to see them is in the early morning or at dusk, when they’re either venturing to or from the rocks. Ensure you have your camera at the ready (with the flash turned off so you don’t startle them).
Best of all, the area is buzzing with places that build a unique sense of community. On the foreshore by the pier you’ll fall in love with Catani Gardens. It’s a superbly manicured garden, prime for a summer picnic, and for just $5 a go you can treat your kids to a ride on a Shetland pony. Back over near Luna Park you’ll find Veg Out – a community garden that has a number of plots being tended to, locals who are up for a chat, picnic spots and a small playground with a sandpit. One of the artists from the surrounding studios offers me a tour of the garden; I hold guinea pigs, feed chickens, snack on broad beans and even walk through a fairy garden.
Hot tip: St Kilda Esplanade Market sees a quirky array of stores pop up right near the beach every Sunday from 10am.
Melbourne is known as one of Australia’s ‘foodie hubs’ and St Kilda won’t disappoint. Browsing Acland Street you’ll want to stop at every one of its cake stores… I systematically manage to devour a gooey lemon meringue, an almond croissant and a gluten-free hazelnut treat over the weekend, and that was with restraint applied!
Come lunch or dinner you’ll want something substantial, and I may have found one of the world’s best family-friendly eats in the form of Pizza E Birra on Fitzroy Street. It’s a family-run Italian joint that serves up great food at pocket-friendly prices. While my party was tucking into marinated olives, wood-fired pizzas and strawberry-coated panna cotta, a large family group is celebrating a birthday at the table next to us. One thing’s for sure, this restaurant has catering to family groups down to an art. Kids and parents are seated at separate tables, with waitstaff ensuring the ‘rowdy’ young ones are nothing but angelic as they devour pizzas and wait for the ‘surprise’ cake to come. It’s parental bliss, a kid’s dream, all-round delicious with award-winning food, and a big ‘YES’ in my book.
For those wanting a laid-back bistro vibe, complete with kids’ toys in the corner and a well-stocked drink selection, Barney Allens is also on the Fitzroy strip and has a delicious selection of bar food on offer, while those hunting for a food stop pre- or post-Luna Park should check out Phamish just across the road.
There is a bounty of family-friendly accommodation options in the region. I made my base a comfy two-bedroom joint at Quest Apartments, with a central location on a slightly removed back street. This meant I could enjoy all the amenities of home (washer, dryer, dishwasher, fridge, etc), minus all the road noise. It’s great for those who want space to spread out with their kids in a convenient location close to all attractions.
This article originally appeared in Holidays with Kids magazine. To subscribe to the latest issue, click here.
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